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samedi 24 mars 2007

Gray "Does" Mountains



For what it's worth, I have to spend a few days in Geneva, Switzerland next week so, after Sunday 25 March, there'll be a gap in my blog entries. I will return, a cuckoo clock under one arm and a chocolate cowbell under the other.

Never been to Switzerland so quite looking forward to it. The week after, I have to go to Salzburg, Austria and I've never been there either. I really like the Austrian colleagues I've met and I suspect that'll be an enjoyable stay.

It's a strange life I lead!

jeudi 22 mars 2007

Bars de Lille - Episode 2










It got to about 8:30 this evening and I thought I wanted to go out for a while. The unavoidable “4 walls closing in” syndrome which, I imagine, afflicts everyone who lives alone, at least once in a while. I went out but it was soon pretty clear that whatever I wanted to get away from for a while had been brought with me to the bar and I was no happier there than here so I decided it would be cheaper to come back to the apartment.

It’s no reflection on the bar I went to. The bar “Autrement Dit” on Rue Royale in Vieux Lille has loads going for it as far as I’m concerned. The first time I was there was in 2003 when, along with 5 others from the UK office, I spent about 4 days here in Lille as part of an International “welcome to the organisation” event. It was the nearest thing I’d had to a foreign holiday in about 8 years so I made the most of it and never spent any more time than necessary in my hotel room.

It wasn’t until several weeks after I’d moved to France and several visits to Autrement Dit later that I realised that this was one of the places I’d been to in 2003. It seems like twenty years ago now and I can’t relate my opinion and usage of the place these days to the wide-eyed, over-romanticised image I had of it back then. In 2003, it was a very different environment from that offered by evenings in Leeds. To a naïve newcomer, it was exotic, strange and very, very French. Now, it’s just the local bar.

Except that it’s more than that. Having struggled out of the womb in ’62, I was still a teenager when punk came along and I was certainly the right age to enjoy all the electronic, new romantic delights of the eighties in England. I was never extraverted enough to dress up and make up etc but I really hooked into the music of the time and I still love it now. Depeche Mode, Yazoo, Tubeway Army, Human League, Ultravox, Japan and all the rest. I loved it. I was an aspiring keyboard player myself and I revelled in all things “synth”. Autrement Dit resounds to those sounds and the more modern music inspired by them and, in there, you'll seldom hear anything else.

There was a trend, in 90s England, for pubs and bars to be lit up like ice cream parlours and I always shunned those places. Lighting plays more of a part in our enjoyment of things than we realise and I’m pleased to say that Autrement Dit is usually very dully-lit, like a bar should be.

The proprietor and staff know me well and I’m always happy not to need to ask for a drink when I enter a bar. They know what I want and, as I walk through the door, someone usually starts pouring it. When it’s quiet, this is just a fun gimmick between staff and regular but, when it’s six-deep at the bar at 11:30 on a Saturday night, it’s an absolute godsend. There are usually 3 people serving at any given time but, in total, there are 5 staff who rotate. When I walk in, whoever is “on shift” that evening will always smile, say “good evening” and shake my hand. It’s a far cry from Leeds. I like being there, they like seeing me there and, behind much of this is the fact that these guys enjoy what they do. They take pride in being good bar staff and the enlightened customer recognises and appreciates this. This is an important difference between the UK and France. In the UK, being a waiter or a barperson is a job and it’s usually a job taken under duress by a student or epidemiologist until “things get sorted”. Here in France, the people who fill these positions are professional, proud and, for the most part, duly respected. A good waiter has an understanding of menu and clientele alike and he or she will take pleasure in advising you and in knowing how to bend the menu to suit your needs. A good barperson will tell you what you want to drink when you can’t decide and he’ll enjoy seeing you enjoy what he’s given you. It’s more or less a lost art and a “non-profession” in the UK but, here, there are experts and they’re worthy of respect.

I’ve been told, by certain residents of Lille, that Autrement Dit is a gay bar. Ok, so some of the bar staff are slim and there’s the odd sequined T-shirt to be seen but the clientele is always very “boy/girl” (apart from me, of course…… I usually tend to be in the “boy/nobody” category). I suspect that this gay bar notion is driven by T-shirts, fairly techno music and the fact that French guys often still greet one another with a kiss on both cheeks (face) and I don’t really buy into it. Admittedly, I’ve seen much more guy-to-guy cheek-kissing there than anywhere else but I went to a party at one of my neighbours’ apartments a few weeks ago and he and his girlfriend both gave me a two-cheek welcome when I arrived so it would be daft to read too much into this greeting etiquette. Besides which, I care far more about how decent, friendly, intelligent and open a person is than I care about where he harbours his boat. Not my concern and certainly not something which could make me alter my opinion of anyone, upwards or downwards.

So we have a nice place, nice welcome, great staff, pleasant clientele, great music, appropriate lighting, they know what I want to drink and then, we have the real “dealmaker”.

If I ever found myself needing to get myself home on all fours (never happened yet) I could crawl home from Autrement Dit in about 10 minutes. In my normal largely vertical orientation, we’re talking about 4 minutes.

Good local amenities and facilities…. You can’t beat ‘em!

mardi 20 mars 2007

Danger in the Optician's Shop








The next time you inadvertently crap into a Frenchman’s glasses case, please feel free to use the following tiny sample list to help you to explain to him how you came to make such an error. Similarly, the next time you find that you’ve put ink on your meatballs or that you’re being represented in a French court by tropical fruit, this little list of translations from French to English might just get you off the hook.

Lentilles = Lentils
Lentilles = Magnifying glasses
Lentilles = Contact lenses

Lunettes = Spectacles (glasses)
Lunettes = Telescopes
Lunettes = Toilet seats
Lunettes = Car windows
Lunettes = Birds’ breastbones

Abat = torrential downpour
Abats = Offal
Abat-jour = Lampshade

Talons = Talons (bird of prey etc)
Talons = Shoe heels
Talons = Cheque stubs

Pomme = Apple
Pomme = Head of lettuce
Pomme = Potato (even without “de terre”)

Pâté = Pâté
Pâté = Pie
Pâté = Inkblot
Pâté = Sandcastle
Pâte = Pasta
Pâte = Pastry
Pâte = Paste
Pâte = Batter
Pâte = Dough
Patte = Animal’s paw
Patte = Animal’s leg
Pat = Stalemate
Pâté de maisons = A city block
Pâté Impérial = Egg roll

Avocat = Avocado pear
Avocat = Lawyer

Mais = Sweetcorn
Mais = “But….”

No room at all for confusion there, then. Time to add a few new words to the French dictionary, I suspect!

I could do with a new prescription for my eyes but I’m too scared to go to the opticians ;o)

lundi 19 mars 2007

The Only Day it Snowed




On the evening of 22 February 2006, JC and I went out for a “welcome to France” drink and we also walked the 10 minutes or so to Rue Ste Catherine, my street-to-be, just to have a look. The whole area was made up of narrow, cobbled streets, only wide enough for one vehicle and every single turn or corner was pretty much 90°. I couldn’t help wondering how the Hell the massive lorry I’d seen 2 weeks earlier in Leeds was even going to reach anywhere near the apartment, let alone find a place to stop for a couple of hours so that all my Worldly goods could be hauled manually up two storeys of wiry spiral stairs. It was one of those times when, instead of thinking like that, you just have to believe that, as much as it might be difficult, disruptive, delayed and frustrating, it’s going to happen somehow or other for the simple reason that there isn’t any alternative. It has to happen.

As planned, I was sitting on the windowsill of the property agent on Rue Nationale at 8:15 the following morning, waiting agitatedly for Mademoiselle to arrive there to give me the keys to the apartment as, at 9am, I had an appointment with a large truck. I had a notion that today would be difficult but, at least, the sun was shining and I was on schedule, in the right place at the right time.

Mademoiselle was also timely enough. At about 8:40, she showed up, grinning as always. During my meeting with her in the January, (during that preparatory week I’d spent in Lille), even with my very stumpy French at the time, I’d managed to have her in fits of laughter (and, yes, some of her laughter was at me rather than with me but who cares? She was sympathetic to my needs either way so “job done”). She handed me my new sets of keys and I duly signed on dotted lines. If I didn’t want to be late and, thereby, miss the impossibilities of getting the lorry into place, I had a very brisk 15 minutes’ walk ahead of me.

It started to snow. A sunny morning transformed itself into the only day in the whole of 2006 on which I would see snow in Lille.

Somebody up there obviously loved me.

Mademoiselle then turned my luck a little by offering to drive me to the apartment. Chivalry set aside for the moment, I accepted on the first offer. It wasn’t so much avoiding the walk which appealed to me. It was more the idea of having someone French “on my team” so that, if there was nothing but negativity when I got there, at least she’d be able to use her lingo and local knowledge to work out the best way around the problems.

We arrived at Rue Ste Cat and I was amazed to see that, not only was the lorry already there, but they had also managed to remove, mechanically, some of the ever-present iron bollards from a section of the street and the lorry was neatly tucked away, off the road, in nobody’s way at all. Nice! Ok, so it was abandoned – there was no sign of anybody who belonged to it but, what the Hell? Inside it would be all manner of furniture and bags and boxes and, if my little run of gentle luck was to continue, the stuff inside the lorry might even turn out to be mine as opposed to the Worldly goods of the Von Eddolhofens from an hour or two up the road in Holland.

The crew were quickly tracked down to a nearby purveyor of sausages. A Brit in charge and two local boys. I was still trying to imagine how a fridge-freezer and a washing machine were ever going to make it up those spiral staircases. I put it out of my mind and all 5 of us went up to the flat. If this blog is a soap opera to you, you might recall that I’d only spent about 5 minutes in the apartment in the January before deciding it ticked all the boxes. Here I was again, just over a month later and, this time, I’d brought my real self with me. I still liked it a lot and I was already plotting what would go where.

I decided not to go back downstairs with the three guys and I thanked Mademoiselle and told her I’d take it from here. She left and I took a subtle glance out of the kitchen window, down onto the street below. I wanted to judge the mood of the three guys. They hadn’t seemed phased when they were up here and, as I looked out, the Brit was whistling contentedly and the two French guys were sharing a laugh…. despite the snow.

I decided to do the “pretend you’re busy reading something in one of the bedrooms” routine which is very effective when trying to keep out of removal men’s way and I thought I’d just wait for the “Sorry, mate. There’s no way this is gettin’ up them stairs”……

About 45 minutes passed and I kept wandering out into the living room from time to time to answer those “Where shall we put this?” questions and to have a quick look at which items they’d already managed to get up the stairs. I felt really guilty at the thought that these nice guys were struggling with my stuff whilst I was doing nothing but I still kept well out of it. After just under an hour, the snow had stopped and every last thing had already been brought up here. Fridge-freezer, washing machine, sofa, bed…. the lot. Up a spiral staircase barely wide enough to allow two people to pass on it. Was I more relieved or was I more impressed? About equal, I’d say and, as much as the Brit was a dour sort, the two French guys were still joking away between themselves. That felt bloody good!

I filled in a few “all present and correct” forms and off they went. As much as I knew that they wouldn’t always receive a cent as a “tip” from a client, I still felt like the €20 note I’d made sure the French guys saw me give to the Brit was nothing compared with how pleased I was at what they’d done and the lack of any fuss at all surrounding their job. They were absolutely superb and nobody should ever use any other company for a job like that….. ever!

Naturally, I decided to give myself a “relief gap” before I even thought about any unpacking and bed assembly etc. I did, however, decide to track down the kettle, a tea bag, some milk and a mug……….

You can take the boy out of England but you can’t take England out of the boy

dimanche 18 mars 2007

French Visionaries - Volume 1
















A few very brief recognitions of some French bods who have made massive contibutions to the World with their ingenuity and foresight.

  • Louis Braille – Blinded as a result of an injury he sustained when 3 years old, Braille went on to be a nationally-recognised church organist, a cellist and a teacher at Paris’ Royal Institution for Blind Youth. He redeveloped an idea of raised dots and dashes which had been used in silent communication between soldiers at the front and simplified it into the 6-dot-per-character system of fingertip reading and writing still in use by blind people today, 155 years after his death. The system has been adapted to pretty much all of the sophisticated languages in the World. A French visionary.
  • Jacques Cousteau – Ex French Navy underwater exploration pioneer who raised popular interest in the biology and ecology of the oceans like nobody before or since through his many decades of spectacular and award-winning films on the subject, usually based on his celebrated boat, Calypso. Later in life, he became director of Monaco’s Oceanographic Museum and was instrumental in the regulation of the disposal of radioactive and otherwise toxic waste at sea. With a partner, he perfected the first truly effective self-contained underwater breathing apparatus (SCUBA). Cousteau won many international prizes for his work and rightly so. He died in 1997 but the Cousteau Society he founded still campaigns tirelessly on marine conservation. A French visionary.
  • Nicolas-Joseph Cugnot – A steam engine is a simple and efficient mechanism but, in order to use one to get from a to b, you need to convert the up-and-down motion of a piston into a rotary motion to turn an axle or wheel. Cugnot’s significance is disputed but this is entirely understandable as, were he to be recognised as the first inventor to harness this conversion of that motion and to apply it to making a powered vehicle move, then he would have to be credited with being the father of locomotives and automobiles of all kinds and, clearly, a title such as that would always be fought over. Indisputably, in 1769, he made a vehicle move by applying just such technology so, however he’s recognised in comparison with other inventors, what he did was fabulous and innovative. A French visionary.
  • Joseph Bienaimé Caventou – Among the better-known plant-based substances identified and isolated by Caventou, a professor at Paris’ prestigious School of Pharmacy in the mid-19th Century, were Chlorophyll, Strychnine, Caffeine and Quinine. Chlorophyll represents no less than an answer to the question “how do plants work and what do they mean to us?” Without Strychnine, a rat would probably be typing this message to you (don’t say it). Could you really get the same hit from your Cappuccino or Coca-Cola if you didn’t know that they were supposed to give you that hit? Had it not been for the identification of the qualities and value of Quinine, then the fight against malaria in the past might have been lost and the fact that insane European policies in relation to immigration have encouraged the reintroduction of diseases like malaria into civilised countries would be even more serious a problem than it already is. A French visionary.
  • Georges Claude – The next time you’re out and about in a big city at night and you need something to eat, look out for a bright sign saying something like “kebabs” or “Indian” or whatever. Spare a thought for Claude, who, on a whim, decided to pass currents through inert gases (like helium, argon and neon) just to see what might happen. What happened was that Monsieur Claude had invented the neon light. He died 47 years ago but it’s pretty much impossible to find a street in a city today where his legacy is not visible. A French visionary.
  • Augustin-Jean Fresnel – If you need a really huge convex glass lens, say 2 metres across or whatever, to focus and project light, then the conventional approach to lens construction would mean that the thickness of glass in the middle of the lens might be so great that it would be difficult to manufacture, to transport, to install and to use. The invention of the Fresnel Lens changed all that and, 180 years after his death, among many uses such as car headlamps, traffic lights, aircraft carrier landing systems and searchlights, they have revolutionised coastal lighthouses, allowing them to project light over far greater distances than had previously been possible and must have averted many a disaster. A Member of the Paris Academy of Science, Fresnel had an understanding of the behaviour of light and other waves and optical issues which was cutting edge. A French visionary.
  • Jean Bernard Léon Foucault – Without gyroscopes, ships might be thrown around by the waves far more, aircraft navigation would be far more haphazard, lots of things would fall over inconveniently, virtual reality headsets wouldn’t know when you turned to the left, compasses would, perhaps, rely too much on the Earth’s magnetic field and all manner of apparently gravity-defying fun would be lost to us. Foucault invented them and was also at the forefront of studies into the Earth’s rotation and, for an encore, he discovered eddy currents which explain many a motion-related phenomenon. I imagine that he’d have been pretty proud if he could see, 139 years after his death, the mid-air computer mouse which can move a cursor on a screen just by being pointed at the screen – no mouse mat, no desk – as a result of their containing gyroscopes. A French visionary.
  • Henri Giffard – Whilst the word “dirigible” is, these days, often taken simply as meaning “an airship”, in the adjective sense, it means “capable of being directed, controlled or steered”. People had been dangling from big, Hydrogen-filled bags for some time when Giffard added a steam engine, a propeller and a rudder into the blend and, thus, provided the first dirigible, passenger-carrying airships. He also invented a pressure injection system, greatly reducing the moving parts required in earlier versions and, I imagine, a precursor to many later propulsion devices. A French visionary.